What Is Bikepacking?
Even though bikepacking might be the travel trend of the last few years, touring by bike with gear in tow is anything but new. Only the equipment, the name — and the image — have changed. Define bikepacking, and you'll inevitably land on terms like frame bag, saddle bag, and handlebar bag, and for the more advanced, sleeping bag and sleeping pad. In truth, the transformation from the classic multi-day, self-supported bike tour with heavy luggage to modern bikepacking just changed how the gear is distributed on the bike — and the bike itself.
What Is Bikepacking?
The bikepacking boom took off in near lockstep with the gravel bike. Unlike a road bike, the gravel bike is rugged and comfortable enough, and capable enough off-road, to handle long adventures away from paved roads and civilization, while still protecting the athleticism that classic touring bikes — with their bulky, heavy panniers and high overall weight — always lacked. It's probably this far more dynamic look, paired with the genuinely sportier ride of the gravel bike, that has lifted bikepacking from a slightly dusty way to travel into something seriously trendy. Pandemic-era travel restrictions gave the trend fertile ground to grow even further.
What Gear Sets Bikepacking Apart From Traditional Touring?
As mentioned, bikepacking differs from conventional loaded touring mainly in how equipment is distributed. The pannier bags mounted on sturdy racks, which were standard until the 2000s, had two major drawbacks. First, carrying up to 40 kilograms required a rack rated for that load, which only worked with traditional diamond-frame bikes that had the necessary rack mounts built in. Compact hardtails, full-suspension mountain bikes, lightweight road bikes, and other sporty models that might otherwise have been well suited to a long-distance tour simply couldn't carry that kind of load. The second drawback was handling: with all the weight over the rear axle, the bike quickly felt sluggish and unstable, and riders often complained of handlebar shimmy even at low speeds.
With a bikepacking setup, gear and weight are distributed as evenly as possible across the bike. Beyond better weight distribution, multiple smaller compartments also provide quicker access to items, make the bike easier to carry, and — for riders with bigger feet — eliminate heel clipping against rear panniers with every pedal stroke. A full set of bikepacking bags for a big adventure typically includes:
Handlebar bag / roll
| Attachment | Straps with hook-and-loop or ratchet closures around the flat section of the handlebar, usually with spacers to keep clearance from the bar and frame |
| Volume | 3 to 24 liters, typically 8 to 12 liters |
| Extra Info | Make sure the size doesn't restrict steering clearance or your grip on the bars. |
Fork bag / low-rider
| Attachment | Threaded mounts on the sides of the fork, usually a base cage plus a waterproof roll-top bag, or clamp-mounted as an alternative |
| Volume | 3 to 12 liters, rarely more than 6 liters |
| Extra Info | Volume matters less here — more than about 2 x 3 kg on the fork starts to hurt handling. Clamp-only mounts without threaded bosses are never fully secure. |
Top tube bag / snack bag
| Attachment | Hook-and-loop straps around the top tube and upper steerer, or two threaded mounts near the front of the top tube |
| Volume | 0.5 to 3 liters; snack bags rarely more than 1.5 liters |
| Extra Info | Be careful with width — knees can bump the bag while pedaling. Choose a waterproof version for electronics. |
Frame bag
| Attachment | Hook-and-loop straps or cinch straps around at least two tubes of the front triangle |
| Volume | 0.3 to 14 liters; over about 4 liters, bottle cages often have to go |
| Extra Info | Ranges from a slim tube shape to a full-triangle fill. A bag that's too bulky can interfere with your leg movement while pedaling. |
Saddle bag / "seat rocket"
| Attachment | Cinch straps or bolt-on clamps on the saddle rails, plus a strap or hook-and-loop band around the seat post |
| Volume | 2 to 18 liters, commonly 6 to 12 liters |
| Extra Info | Oversized bags or heavy items placed far from the mounting point cause annoying sway and make mounting the bike harder — don't overdo it. |
Accessory straps
| Attachment | Extra-wide strap systems for free placement on the frame and/or components |
| Volume | Depends on frame size — roughly the volume of a water bottle |
| Extra Info | Great for quick access and maximizing bike storage but not weatherproof. |
Bottle cage
| Attachment | Threaded bosses on the frame or fork, or clamp-mounted via an adapter |
| Volume | 0.5 to 1 liter; universal cages fit up to 1.5-liter bottles |
| Extra Info | Can also hold toolboxes or similar items instead of bottles; gravel bikes usually come with a third mount under the down tube. |
| Attachment | A mobile, low-riding harness system with hip and chest straps |
| Volume | 1.5 liters (hydration packs) up to 40 liters, commonly 12 to 20 liters |
| Extra Info | Doesn't affect the bike's handling but comes at the cost of comfort and freedom of movement. |
What Bike Should You Use for Bikepacking?
As mentioned, the adventure-touring and gravel bike trends are closely linked. This "jack of all trades" among bike types is especially well suited thanks to its low weight, good rolling and acceleration characteristics, and a riding position that combines a surprising amount of comfort with efficient pedaling biomechanics. The moderately forward-leaning body position shifts the rider's center of gravity over the legs, which requires far less holding strength than on a classic touring bike, lets the muscles work through better joint angles, and even offers an aerodynamic edge into headwinds. Current tire widths of up to 65 millimeters — depending on brand and model — provide enough long-distance comfort and grip for at least moderately rough travel routes. Riders expecting more off-road terrain can opt for a gravel model with a suspension fork or a lightweight hardtail mountain bike. The rougher and steeper the terrain, the less suited a gravel bike becomes, which means more hike-a-bike sections.
That said, bikepacking and gravel bikes aren't a mandatory pairing. Ultimately, the choice of bike is highly personal and should be based on the rider's preferences around riding position, tires, and gearing, as well as — mainly — the terrain and profile of the tour. Just as important is whether you can mount all the gear from your packing list securely on the bike. Before setting off on a bikepacking adventure, beginners should work through the following questions:
- Is the bike rated for the expected system weight — its own weight, plus your full load (including fluids), plus you? Do a test pack to check!
- Where can you mount which bags, and is there enough space for your whole trip? Not every bike offers the same number of mounts, open frame tubes, room in the front triangle, or clearance between the brake levers.
- Is the bike properly fitted to you? On bikepacking-style trips, beginners in particular often ride farther than they have before. Serious discomfort can appear as early as day one, caused by unnecessary holding forces, poor joint angles, and anatomically inappropriate pressure points. Tip: try a home bike fit with an Ergon Fitting Box.
- Are your components — especially at the contact points of the grips, saddle, and pedals — the right fit for you? Poorly chosen products here can quickly take the joy (and the motivation) out of a trip. To find the right grip or bar tape among the many options, Ergon offers a Grip Selector; likewise, you can find your ideal saddle with the Saddle Selector.
- What grades and terrain should you expect — and can you handle the toughest sections with your current gearing? A soft, bumpy forest trail requires a different gear setup than a firm gravel road at the same power output, and a route through high mountains calls for lower gears than a ride along a river.
- What spare parts and tools does your specific bike need? That depends on your bike's components, how far you'll be from the nearest bike shop, and what you can realistically repair yourself. Riders on round-the-world trips often stick to simple technology — no electronic shifting, carbon parts, or hydraulic brakes — because spare parts aren't always available outside industrialized countries. The rougher the terrain, the more likely mechanical issues are.
- Check wear parts well ahead of departure. Worn brake pads or a worn cassette can be annoying and dangerous, but components that haven't been broken in yet can ruin the fun just as easily. Don't forget the cleats and tires!
What Else Do You Need for Bikepacking?
Beyond gear for overnight stays, downtime, and food, navigation is critical. Whether you've mapped your route down to the meter or you're riding more by feel and general direction, not knowing where you are, how far you have left, roughly what the route ahead looks like, or where potential shortcuts are is about as unpleasant as it gets on a bikepacking trip. A traditional paper map arguably makes for the bigger adventure, but most riders these days rely on digital navigation. That can mean a smartphone, though phones drain quickly in routing mode and tend to overheat in direct sun. For longer trips, even beginners benefit from a bike computer with built-in navigation — ideally paired with an auxiliary battery mounted on the stem. Just note: not every device ships with usable maps for every region out of the box.
„When I want to be as fast as possible on a bikepacking trip, efficiency is everything. I bring only what I absolutely need. But just as important, I know exactly where everything is and am mentally prepared for unlikely scenarios.“
Clothing built on the layering principle also matters — from light and breathable to fully waterproof — since multi-day trips mean you have to be ready for almost any weather. Depending on the day's plan and where you're staying, it's worth carrying a lock that's sturdy but not too heavy. Taking the train, staying in shared accommodations, or stopping at a restaurant is a lot more relaxed with one along. Tip: a lightweight cable lock paired with an alarm makes for a very efficient, compact combo.
„Good planning ahead and a well-maintained bike often save you a kilo or two of gear because you only bring what you're likely to need.“
„On a vacation trip, what matters to me is the balance of comfort on and off the bike. That means I don't want to haul around more gear than necessary, but a certain level of comfort during downtime still matters to me on vacation.“
Beyond the obligatory helmet, a pair of cycling glasses is a must — ideally with photochromic lenses that protect your eyes from debris and wind in both rain and bright sun. Constant airflow dries out the eyes and makes them more prone to infection.
„Insider gear tip: Spending an extra 5 or 10 minutes packing your bags in the morning saves you hours of stress and time throughout the day.“
What Does a Typical Bikepacking Route Look Like?
The freedom of two wheels can look very different depending on your time budget and fitness level — from a micro-adventure in your hometown to a round-the-world trip or a multi-day gravel race.
Route, terrain, distance, elevation profile, and number of stages can either be planned around your bike, or you can choose your bike to match the route. Technically, anyone carrying just a change of clothes in small bags on a day trip is already bikepacking. But the experience only becomes "true" bikepacking once it includes an overnight stay — what's known as an overnighter. Whether you spend that night in accommodation or in a tent as a beginner significantly changes the adventure factor.
Note: Wild camping is prohibited in most European countries. A one-night emergency bivouac, with solid justification and responsible behavior — no litter, no cooking or grilling on dry ground, no soap near water sources, etc. — usually won't get you in trouble.
The big advantage of hotels, guesthouses, and the like: you save the weight of a tent and a good amount of food. The downside of booked accommodation is fixed daily stages, which leaves very little room for spontaneous sightseeing, detours based on last-minute tips, or lengthening or shortening a stretch — or rerouting — based on how the day is actually going, which can put you under time pressure.
How Long Are Bikepacking Stages Typically?
Beginners without motor assistance shouldn't overestimate their abilities on their first outings and should stick to roughly 60 to 80 kilometers a day. More ambitious riders can expect to cover 160 to 200 kilometers a day on relatively flat terrain and well-maintained roads. Mountains and off-road sections can easily cut those daily distances in half. E-bikers should manage their battery carefully and build in a generous buffer, since the most direct route to the day's destination isn't always the one you end up taking.
What Can You Do When Your Hands, Feet, or Backside Hurt?
Once you're out on your trip, unfortunately there's not much you can do. Aside from adjusting your riding position on the fly, light stretching during breaks — here are some stretches specifically for cyclists — and consciously repositioning your grip and seat regularly, all you can really do is commit to optimizing your bike before the next trip. This video from our ergonomics expert, Dr. Kim Tofaute, one of the best-known bike fitters, can help.